As we mentioned in our write-up of Central Michel Richard, July was designated as the first annual “Rickey Month” by the DC Craft Bartender’s Guild. A number of bars around the area had their own variations of the rickey up on the menus.
The rickey originated in DC. According to the card that they were handing out last night, the recipe was first in the Washington Post back in 1889. The drink was named after a lobbyist whose last name was Rickey, though he ordered his with whiskey rather than the more traditional (today) form with gin.
I arrived in Adams Morgan a bit early so I headed over to Asylum for a couple of beers (a Sierra Nevada Summerfest and a Smuttynose IPA) while waiting for Marshall. Once he arrived we grabbed a couple of empanadas from Julia’s Empanadas (yummy) not realizing the full array of appetizers that would be laid out at Bourbon. Then it was over to Bourbon!
There were eight drinks to try. The contestants would work the upstairs bar, each making their own rickey, with one other barback there to handle other requests and dishes. The schedule looked like this:
6:00 – 6:30:
Owen – Key Lime Rickey
Kat – Haymaker Rickey
6:30 – 7:00:
Adam – “Bathtub Gin” Rickey
Chantal – Rive Gauche Rickey
7:00 – 7:30:
Kevin – Dupont “Gin” Rickey
Gina – Georgie’s Rickey
7:30 – 8:00:
Justin – Black Pepper Rickey
Dan – Berry Lime Rickey
After 8:00:
Traditional rickeys with the Brown Brothers
After saying hi to a few people, we got our bellies to the bar and grabbed one of each. I started with Bourbon’s own Owen Thomson and a Key Lime Rickey (Wild Turkey 101, Key Lime Juice, Coriander Tincture, Peychaud’s, Carbonated Coconut Water) while Marshall got a Haymaker Rickey (Old Overholt Rye, Brown Sugar Balsamic Simple Syrup, Ginger Ale, Soda Water, Limes) from Kat Bangs of Tabard Inn. (I had the first names and rickey names from the blackboard, and obviously, I knew some of the last names and where they worked – others, plus the recipes unless stated otherwise, I’m referencing from the DCist article last week.) Finishing those off we switched up and got the opposite ones.
The Key Lime was low key, not super heavy on the lime flavor. Of the two, I leaned towards Kat’s Haymaker more, as it had a bit more complexity to it and I really liked the brown sugar/balsamic simple syrup. The vinegar taste kind of jumped out at you which was something I like in a refreshing drink (as noted when we’d tried Justin’s black pepper lime rickey back in July).
Next up were Adam Bernbach of Bar Pilar and his “bathtub gin” rickey, so called because he made his own “gin” using botanical-infused souchu and finished the rickey with yuzu juice (whatever that is) and soda water. Marshall, unfortunately, didn’t manage to get one of those due to the fact that he was hanging up near the end of the bar with Rick Wasmund (of Copper Fox Distillery) and some others, while lines had spontaneously formed for each of the bartenders further down. I managed to get one, and then got back into Marshall’s good graces.
How? I went down, stood in line for a while, and got one of Chantal Tseng’s Rive Gauche Rickeys that she’s been serving up at the Tabard Inn. It has (to quote again from DCist): Aviation Gin, St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur, Lucid Absinthe, Limes, Charles de Fere Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Wine, Lavender. (We kept calling it prosecco instead of sparkling wine last night, oops.) I lost my lavender fairly quickly but once I got a straw (sipping out of the glass could just give you an overwhelming hit of sparkling wine) it was the winner for me of that half-hour. I couldn’t really pick up the absinthe amongst everything else, especially the St. Germain, but it was really good.
Next up for me was Kevin Rogers’ Dupont “Gin” Rickey. Kevin works at Urbana, a bar I’m not especially familiar with, but after having a good time talking and hanging out with him a bit later we’ll definitely have to trek over there. His was made with Knob Creek bourbon, had muddled ginger in it and a top of mint. I think that overall for the evening it might’ve been my favorite – not that any of them were bad!
Following that one up was Gina Chersevani’s Georgie’s Rickey. Gina is over at EatBar nowadays and we still do not get over there anywhere near enough. (Marshall: we need to fix that! Not tonight, though, I’ve got karaoke at O’Sullivan’s.) Hers had Woodford Reserve, lime juice, raw dark brown sugar, curry cherries, soda water, and microbasil (I do not know what that is). Check that out – curry cherries. Those things packed a punch!
I was sipping on my Georgie’s Rickey when Todd Thrasher (of PX and Restaurant Eve) walked by – he was one of the judges of the competition (along with John Wabeck, formerly of New Heights and now of Inox, Charlotte Voisey, the mixologist master of Hendrick’s Gin, and Eric Felten of the Wall Street Journal). We spoke briefly but as I started to talk, I took a drink, and one of those bits of cherry went down the wrong pipe. Oof! My eyes were watering, my voice was rough…it was worth it. That was a tasty beverage.
Finally (heh) it was to the last round of drinks. Moving around to Dan Searing’s line, of the Looking Glass Lounge, we grabbed two of his Berry Lime Rickeys, made with gin, berry compote (blackberries and raspberries), soda water, lemons and limes. Nice and fruity, it felt like the kind of summertime drink that a nice hot August day really deserved. We had skipped Justin Guthrie’s black pepper gin rickey because, after all, we’d had it before, and we wanted to make sure we tried all of them.
He joked that we’d said his drink tasted like “sour milk” which immediately flashed me back to college when an unsuspecting first year asked me to make him a “blue drink” – and in my drunken state I combined tequila, blue curacao, and milk. Never again was I asked such a question lest the “Blue Mexican” be made again.
It was time for the results of the competition. Before their shift at the bar each mixologist would make up a batch for the judges and (it looked like) talk to them a bit. The first announcement, from Derek Brown, was the results of the popular votes.
The winner was Justin Guthrie of Central Michel Richard! Derek stepped down and Todd came up to deliver the judges’ results. They agreed with the masses – Justin won again!
That having been said, everyone rushed to the bar to get one of Justin’s rickeys or to try one of the traditional rickeys from Derek (especially while Justin was getting videotaped). We snagged two of the black pepper rickeys to compare to the others and yep, of course, they were good. But as I said – there were no bad rickeys.
Of course, that wasn’t everything for the night. We had a chance to catch up with some people we hadn’t talked to in a while and to meet people we hadn’t met before, such as Kat and Chantal from Tabard Inn (and now I feel slightly guilty that I didn’t make it there for lunch yesterday, but me feeling guilty is not an unusual thing). Rick Wasmund and his friends were very nice, even though I’m often an idiot and stick my foot right into my mouth down to the ankle. Hopefully sometime soon we can make our way out to Sperryville and check out Copper Fox. I’m going to have to dig out my bottle of Wasmund’s Single Malt Whisky and figure out what batch I have.
There was hanging out with Heather (and making her feel old, I’m afraid), Joe, and Jake. Talking with Kevin, Dave & Liz (whom I had mistaken for, uh, someone else, please see above where I say “I’m often an idiot”), John, Owen, Justin, Adam, Kat, Chantal – I mean, seriously, everyone there was so much fun to hang out with and so cool. I managed to share with Charlotte that thanks to Hendrick’s, I know have a gazillion gins and drink way too much of it. I didn’t manage to eat any of the delicious looking appetizers except one deep fried thing on a stick.
We paid up our tab and went to leave but Marshall wanted to make his goodbyes. I helped with that by getting a “traditional” gin rickey from Derek. Marshall followed that up by talking to Bill, one of the owners of Bourbon, and there we ended up with a sampling of some Four Roses. That was exactly what we needed! A cheap cab ride back to Ballston later (man oh man do I LOVE the new meters in DC!) and an almost-as-expensive cab ride back to East Falls Church later (okay, I got too lazy to Metro) and I sat down at home with a La Aurora 1495 cigar and a bottle of Flying Dog Amber Ale.
What a day.
Let’s end this with a few shout-outs:
Big thanks has to go to the staff and owners of Bourbon for hosting this event – and specifically to Bill for introducing us to Four Roses (and, of course, almost undoubtedly assuring that we buy some).
To everyone behind the bar: Owen, Kat, Adam, Chantal, Kevin, Gina, Justin, Dan, Derek, and the guy from Bourbon whose name I never got.
To the people we met there for the first time: Dave & Liz, Rick, Chelsea, Richard, Kevin, Chantal, Kat and others I’m probably forgetting – rock on. Hopefully see y’all at the next event like this (or sooner) and send me that e-mail about the editorial Dave!
To people we’ve hung out with before even if just briefly: Joe, Jake, Heather, Derek, Justin, Adam, Gina, probably others I’m forgetting again: always good fun, especially for finally getting a chance to see Joe having a drink and not just selling them!
I’ll sign off with two quick thoughts: I’d have pictures, but Sprint is really annoying me today and I can’t get to them. And I should’ve listened to my brother and taken today off from work!













